EMBROIDERY

Tips for Embroidering Multiple Placements on Caps

March 15, 2010
By Steven Batts, Contributing Writer

When we talk about embroidering caps, we generally think of the front of the cap. Of course, that isn’t the only place that a cap can be embroidered. With advancements in framing devices over the years, more placements are not only possible, but they're even easier than ever.

The biggest advancement since the invention of the cap frame is the 270-degree frame, which allows embroiderers to sew from “ear to ear” on a cap, or 270 degrees of rotation (hence the name).

When these frames were initially developed, it was envisioned that designs would stretch all the way around the cap. While this is possible, most embroiderers use these frames to place individual designs on the front of the cap, as well as one or both sides of the cap.

The trick to embroidering designs on the side of a cap is partly in the framing. Caps naturally tend to angle upward on the sides. You have to pull the bottom of the cap down so that they are square to the frame. Also, make sure the sides of the cap are secured by the strap band that goes around the cap. Of course, the back clips on these frames need to be in place for the side placements. While you may not need cap backing for the fronts of certain caps (structured), it is needed for the side panels, especially on stretchy caps.

Generally, the front design is sewn onto a cap first, followed by the side placement. The process of centering the design will not work for this. Ideally, you should center the design with the front placement. Otherwise, the design center will be somewhere between the front and the side logos.

One of the trickiest parts is spacing the two or three logos that will be combined to be sewn on the cap. This is difficult because the size of the panels on a cap changes between styles. The best thing to do is to measure the distance from the center seam on the front of the cap to the center of the side panel. Use this measurement to space the front logo and the side logo(s).

Other Framing Options
Of course, you don’t need a 270-degree cap frame to embroider side placements. Even if you do own one of these frames, it won’t always work – especially for those times when your customer wants a design or lettering on the side as close to the bottom of the cap as possible. For these cases, you have a few different options.

There are frames – other than cap frames – that are available to assist you with embroidering the sides of caps. For example, Hoop Tech makes clamping attachments that will let you simply clamp down the sides of caps. Other products that are available from Hoop Tech, as well as Fast Frames, are the fast-change frames that use adhesive backing. Rather than framing the cap, you simply stick it down to the frame so it can be embroidered.

The cheapest option is to simply use a conventional frame, such as one measuring 4.5 inches or 5 inches (12 cm). If you frame the cap partially in the hoop, you can align the bottom of the cap with the markings on the hoop. You still should fold out the sweat band – although on some caps, I just sew right through it. Although the cap is partially framed, make sure you have a piece of tearaway stabilizer completely covering the hoop.

The same thing applies to the back of a cap. Most cap backs cannot be embroidered in a cap frame. The only ones that can are fitted and stretch-to-fit caps; those with size adjusters won’t work. Once again, this leaves you with the options of using an attachment or a conventional hoop. I actually prefer using a hoop on the backs of caps. They aren’t really tough to frame. Even if you don’t have a fancy framing board to embroider cap backs, you can still frame them fairly easily. Just use the corner of a table to work on.

Caps with an opening in the back provide plenty of alignment marks. You have the seam in the back, as well as the edges of the cap around the opening. When I align the edge of a cap and the seam on the back with the marks on my hoop, I know I have framed the cap correctly.

That should just about cover embroidery on the entire cap – the front, back and sides. Fortunately, people haven’t really been requesting embroidery on the tops of caps – yet! When they do, I am sure that will bring the next innovation in cap frames.

Steven Batts, a consultant with 17 years experience in the embroidery industry, owns Righteous Threads, Greensboro, N.C., which offers digitizing, embroidery and machine maintenance services. Steven regularly leads seminars at ISS shows and is an industry speaker and consultant. For more information or to comment on this article, e-mail Steven at righteousthreads@gmail.com.



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